When you think of Fendi, a lot comes to mind. The storied Italian house has a legacy that transcends house codes, without hard definitions, set by the Fendi family and Karl Lagerfeld’s tenure. The addition of Kim Jones as creative director in 2020, who presented his debut collection during the last couture season, extends the tradition of keeping it in the family.
“The Fendi family are women of intellect who work hard–and that’s what I wanted to celebrate,” Jones notes in the brand’s press release. “A powerful dynasty”—and an impeccably dressed one. Shades of camel are sumptuously layered in contrasting textiles. Boucle wool trenches are draped over rich suede and silk blouses delicately monogrammed with Lagerfeld’s namesake logo, the “Kaligraphy” monogram. A house known for its furs, a standout piece is a woven herringbone coat edged in fringe. Silk rosettes and printed marble are lingering details from his premiere Fendi show. Delicate knitwear is presented in coordinating sets, continuing the sweater-bra trend we’ve seen explode over the past few years. Under the direction of Silvia Venturini Fendi, the runway also launched a new bag silhouette, the Fendi First, alongside familiar icons like the Peekaboo and Sunshine Shopper.
“I’m taking the amazing, strong women who I both know and work with, and listening to their needs,” Jones states. “There’s a usefulness to the collection.”
The neutral palette is a collection of separates to create a full wardrobe for the Fendi woman, who could pull together an outfit by blindly plucking anything off this runway. It’s a practical approach to dressing, one that reflects the times without sacrificing the opulent nature of fashion itself. We’re still in the process of fully understanding the scope of Jones’ point of view as a womenswear designer, but it’s clear that his first ready-to-wear collection is sexy and strong, clean and wearable.
“Fun isn’t always just about bright colours,” Jones says. “It can be about really luxurious self indulgence, which pleases the person wearing it more than anyone else.” In other words, treat yourself.
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