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We’re only a few days into the fall-winter 2020 show season, but we’re already seeing the biggest trends of the year presenting themselves. So far we’ve spotted a strong ’90s aesthetic (re)born from Instagram, the influential power of #NewBottega accessories, and horse girls having their moment. Make sure to check back regularly. We’ll be updating the trends as fashion month rolls on through New York, London, Milan, and finally Paris.
The ‘90s has proven again and again that it’s the decade we can’t stop wearing. But instead of mom jeans, designers are testing out the grunge movement, reminiscent of Marc Jacobs iconic collection for Perry Ellis in 1992. Usual suspects like R13 led the e-girl trend, but unexpected designers are also tapping into the Angela Chase mindset. Tartan plaid skirts were secured by safety pins at Monse, Rag & Bone styled Courtney Love slip dresses with knit scarves, and chunky Doc Martens stormed down the runway at both Jonathan Cohen and Private Policy.
When it comes to equine-inspired fashion, we’re seeing less western, more Westchester. Designers traded in cowboy stirrups for sleek riding boots, styled with ladylike suits at Tory Burch and Brandon Maxwell. We even saw actual equestrian caps topping off looks at Self-Portrait, because we know how literal horse girls can get.
Basic camel coat? We don’t know her. Think bigger next season, because ponchos and capes, especially in oversized, floor-length silhouettes, will be the it-coat next. As suggested by all your favorite designers, you can opt for modern elegance with a sweeping coral evening cape from Carolina Herrera, or experiment with a knitted poncho worthy of an Ayahuasca trip.
Bottega Veneta’s influence knows no bounds, and we’re still seeing it sprinkled throughout the runways. Oversized chains in particular are having a moment that’s spread across the entire accessory spectrum; Whether you’re into gold or silver, you can find thick shackles flung across bags, jewelry, and belts. Ulla Johnson strapped her sandals in gilded ropes, giving the trend an goddess twist.
These hips don’t lie, and they’re bigger than ever. But these aren’t the Marie Antoinette-esque panniers we saw last season at Thom Browne and Loewe. Instead, fall 2020 puts a modern spin on the shapely silhouette. Christian Siriano’s graphic dresses were reminiscent of Picasso paintings, while Brandon Maxwell presented dropped-waist ballgowns that are sure to make a red carpet appearance or two.
We’ve been big on blazers for a minute now, but designers are conjuring a different cut this fall. Maybe we’re all a little obsessed with Little Women, because we spotted sweet, Victorian-inspired toppers at a Ulla Johnson, Jason Wu, Brock Collection, and more so far. The silhouette has subtly puffed shoulders, a nipped waist, and single button front. It’s cut in fabrics ranging from velvet to dainty floral brocade, meaning there’s something for everyone.